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If visitors are wondering which place in this kingdom would
give them a taste of everything, we suggest that they give Tansen a try. Tansen
is a small town of approximately twenty thousand people. It is on the way from
Pokhara to Lumbini, the birthplace of Lord Buddha, and it is not too far from
the Royal Chitwan National Park. Located 4,300 meters above sea level, on the
south flank of Srinagar Hill, the greatest attractions of this town are its
ancient culture, friendly people, excellent mountain views, and, above all,
its serene atmosphere. The weather remains moderate throughout the year, and
it is a pleasant place to visit in any season.
The town's mostly Newar and Magar
inhabitants have long been known as staunch warriors. The kings of Tansen wielded
great power over western Nepal in the fifteenth century. Palpa, their kingdom
was the last to be defeated by the conquering Gurkhas who unified today's Nepal.
These people became even more famous in the Anglo-Nepal war of the early I
800s. Col. Ujir Singh Thapa who commanded the army in the region was in an
extremely trying situation at the time. His men were outnumbered four to one
by the English forces. He desperately asked for divine help before going into
battle, promising a temple in the name of the mother Bhagwati (who is ferocious
and loves blood sacrifices) if she would help him. He won. In 1815, he kept
his word and built a temple to the goddess. However, fighting is not the only
forte of Tansen residents.
The jamre folk song performance of the Magars are
colorful. Dancing and feasting are accompanied by drumbeats of the madal during
festivals. Amar Singh Thapa, another great champion of the Anglo-Nepal war,
had great affinity for Tansen as well. He brought highly skilled artisans from
Kathmandu Valley to build the Amar Narayan temple when he was the governor
of the town. The temple's woodcarvings are remarkable and puja is offered here
everyday to Bishnu.
During the time of the Rana prime ministers., from 1846
to 1951, Tansen became an important outpost. Those who offended the administration
or were political prisoners were sent away from the Kathmandu Valley beyond
Tansen. It was thought that they would not be able to cause problems to the
rulers from their faraway exiles. Later the Ranas tried to develop Tansen into
a hill-station and built palaces and mansions for personal use. One such palace
in the heart of the town has a huge door called the Bag gi Dhoka. Some say
that it was built so that Khadga Shumsher Rana would not need to get off his
elephant while entering the palace. Others claim that it was built so that
horse drawn chariots could easily enter the palace grounds. The town's intricately
patterned dhaka is the most popular handwoven cloth of Nepal. Newar women of
the Kathmandu Valley have preferred its shawls for many decades. Nepal's national
cap, the topi, is also made of dhaka. Dhaka is available to buyers at the town's
bazaars. Those interested may also see weavers at work on their looms.
There
are potters and metal workers in Tansen too. Earthen pottery is still used
in many houses of Tansen. Jugs, basins, and even filters are made from clay
for local use. Chang, the local liquor, is wonderfully cool if it has been
stored in earthen-ware. Metal workers make deep plates, karuwa water Jugs,
utensils for worship and hookahs for smoking.
Tansen is charming because it
is unspoiled by modernity, pollution and urban bustle. On clear days, mountain
views from the town reveal Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Manaslu, Gauri Shankar and
other peaks and a walk up to Srinagar Hill provides an even more thrilling
Himalayan panorama.
Several hotels are located in Tansen. The number of travelers
to this "hill
station" have increased over the years, and so have tourist facilities.
Indeed! Tansen is he perfect answer to those who wish to get an overall taste
of Nepal.
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