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Nuptse Mountain

Nuptse Summit

Mount Nuptse is also called Mt. Nuptse. In Tibetan Language, Nuptse means West Peak. And Nuptse is in the western part of Lhotse-Nuptse-massif. Also, Mt. Nuptse borders with Everest’s Western Cwn, which is a broad, flat, gently undulating glacial valley basin terminating at the foot of the Lhotse Face of Mount Everest) in the southern part. It is one of the highest mountains among 7000 meters peak and is situated at an altitude of 7855 meters. Mt. Nuptse, which is regarded as one of the toughest mountains in terms of technicality is located to the southwest of Mt. Everest and to the East of Mt. Lhotse.

The reason why climbing Mt. Nuptse is considered tough is that of loose snow in presence of hollows along the way. Also, there are weakly attached cornices (an overhanging mass of hardened snow at the edge of a mountain precipice) of snow, which in turn a hurdle while climbing.

Dennis Davis from Great Britain and Sherpa Tashi were the first ones to conquer the main peak of Mt. Nuptse in the year 1961, May 16. The following day rest of the expedition team members Chris Bonington, Les Brown, James Swallow and Pemba Sherpa summited the peak. And, Joe Walmsley led the expedition.

The main ridge of Mt. Nuptse is separated from Lhotse by a 7556m high load and is crowned by 7 peaks. And the Nuptse ridge passes west-northwest until its steep face drops down more than 2300 m to the Khumbu glacier. The south face of Nuptse is 2500m high and 5 km wide.

Best Time to climb Mt. Nuptse

As the spring and autumn seasons are considered to be the best time for trekking and expedition, it goes same with the Nuptse expedition as well. March to May, which are spring season and the autumn season, which starts from the month of September until November is the favorable seasons that best suits for the climbers to summit Mt. Nuptse. Among these seasons, April and May during the spring, and October and November during the Autumn are the classic climbing periods. Monsoons and winters are the worst times to climb Mt. Nuptse and any other summits.

Physical conditions and experience requirements for Mt. Nuptse expedition

Mt. Nuptse is also commonly called Mt. Everest’s cousin. Plus, it’s almost 8000m in altitude. So, it’s undoubtedly way tougher to climb. Moreover descending back to base camp is, even more, tougher than ascending to Mt. Nuptse summit. One needs to have stamina, technical skills of climbing as well as strong willpower and courageous mindset. You have to have strong prior experience with rock climbing, ice climbing and so on. Also, adjusting with air condition is another challenge of which a climber should be careful about. Above 7000m the air density is reduced by 40% as compared to that of sea level.

What equipments do I need while climbing Mt. Nuptse?

One should be very careful about the equipment selection before summiting the mighty Mt. Nuptse Summit. Either the climber has to bring the equipment on their own or else s/he can buy/hire them while in Nepal. Here are the things, which the climber must have before attempting to climb Mt. Nuptse: Main rope, Down Sleeping Bag, Down Jacket, Gore-Tex jacket, Trouser, Climbing boots, Trekking boot, Ice-axe with Ice hammer, Rucksack, Crampon, Stick, Harness, Get up (Boot clover), Snow Glass, Ice Screws, Snow Shovel, Carbine Lock & unlock, Head Lights, Wind Proof Jacket & trouser, Down Trouser, Wind Proof Trouser, Water Bottle, Woolen Gloves, Bag Cover, Wind mask for climbing, Climbing gloves, Socks for climbing, Personal Medicine, Knife.

Woolen gloves to keep hands warm during expedition

FAQs: Facts and Information

  • Nuptse height: 7855m/ 25,772 ft
  • Region: Everest region
  • Types of accommodation: Hotels and lodges
  • Mountain range: Lies in Mahalangur Himal range
  • Trip beginning and ending: Starts from Kathmandu and ends in Kathmandu.
  • Location: Mt. Nuptse lies in Nepal at Latitude of 27.96⁰ N and longitude of 86.88⁰ E.
  • Technical expertise required to climb Mt. Nuptse: Advanced technical and mountaineering skills.
  • Mt. Nuptse lies next to Mt. Everest and is crowned by seven peaks

Mt. Nuptse Expedition

The challenging yet exciting journey to Mt. Nuptse summit begins from the flight to Lukla at an altitude of 2850m from Kathmandu. For the first few days, the climber treks passing through the majestic villages in the Khumbu region. During the initial phase, the climber has to follow the normal route, which is common for Lhotse as well as Nuptse massif. The base camp is situated beside the Khumbu glacier above its icefall.

While climbing Nuptse Mountain, the climber will be well acquainted with the beautiful Everest region, Everest Base Camp (EBC) and also the Kalapatthar at 5545 m high with a wider view of mountain ranges. Until then, one has to pass through the amazing villages of Dingboche, Lobuche, Goraksheep and famous Everest Base Camp at 5367 m high, which is near to Nuptse Base Camp.

After passing through the Basecamp, a high camp will be set up by the Sherpa at 6050 m, which helps to make the whole climb more accessible, quicker and safer as well.

Nuptse climbing Itinerary

Normally it takes around 45 days to do Nuptse summit.

Here’s the itinerary of how it goes:

  • Day 1: Arrival to Kathmandu from Tribhuvan International Airport
  • Day 2: Preparation day: Preparing equipment and getting ready to fly.
  • Day 3: Fly to Lukla (2850m) and then trek to Phakding (2610 m)
    There is an early morning flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. If you’re lucky enough, you will be able to witness mountain ranges. Phakding is one of the important trade routes in the Khumbu region.
  • Day 4: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440 m)
    On the fourth day, you’ll be reaching Namche Bazaar, which is at an altitude of 3440m. Namche Bazaar is the major city and trading center in Khumbu region.
  • Day 5: Rest day at Namche Bazaar
    Rest day at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization.
  • Day 6: Trek to Thyangboche (Tengboche)
    Uphill walk from Namche Bazaar will lead you to a beautiful village called Tengboche, which is at an altitude of 3860 m and is above the river Dudh Koshi. You’ll be able to witness spectacular views of mountains such as Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Nuptse, and Mt. Ama Dablam from there.
  • Day 7: Trek to Dingboche
    Dingboche is elevated at an altitude of 4410m from the sea level. Passing through the scarce rhododendron trees, Pangboche, river and Imja valley, one can reach the beautiful Dingboche village.
  • Day 8: Acclimatization and rest day at Dingboche.
  • Day 9: Trek to Lobuche (4940m)
    Slow and steady walks for few hours will lead you to Lobuche (4940 m) through Pheriche.
  • Day 10: Trek to Nuptse Base Camp
    Welcome to the base camp.
  • Day 11: Acclimatization at Nuptse Base Camp.
  • Day 12- 26: Camping and acclimatization
  • Day 27-36: Nuptse Climb period
  • Day 37: Depart Nuptse Basecamp
  • Day 38-40: Trek to Lukla
  • Day 41: Fly to Kathmandu
  • Day 42: Rest/ Excursion day at Kathmandu
  • Day 43: Fly back home with beautiful memories.

PS: The itinerary can be slightly changed as per your wants and desire. Since the weather is unpredictable and it’s in the higher altitude, the situation might differ; the climbers have to be smart enough to improvise as per the situation accordingly.

Wrapping Up

Even though Mt. Nuptse is less chosen than any other mountains, it still is very challenging and perfect for the mountain lovers.

What do you think of it?

Want to give it a try climbing?

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